Making welt pockets can be scary and probably for some very difficult to do. Worry no more. I have made up a photo by photo tutorial to help you understands the steps in the pattern tutorial easier.
Let’s get started.
TUTORIAL: How To Sew Welt Pockets
Let’s follow these steps!
Step 1: Transfer the welt pocket markings on both the main jacket and pocket. Place the notches placement on the RS of the main pocket.
TIP: I cut the rectangle piece off my pattern pieces and use a chalk to transfer the rectangle to the main fabric. Note: You will need to use the layers feature when printing, so you can see all pattern piece markings clearly for your sizes only.
Interfacing the main pocket and the main fabric on the WS where the welt pocket will be placed.
Tip: I used welt pockets rectangle piece to cut my fusible pieces. I made sure they are a bit wider than the rectangle piece.
Place the RS of the pocket on the RS of the main fabric, align the welt pocket markings.
Note: Make sure the curve side of the pocket is facing the outside of the jacket where zipper is placed and not towards the armhole.
Step 2: Sew around the marking.
TIP: I used the welt pocket rectangle piece to get a perfect rectangle shape. How: Pin the rectangle piece right where the welt pocket placement is on the WS of pocket. Sew around the edges of the pattern piece.
Remove the paper piece.
Step 3: Clip into the middle of the pocket opening but not past the thread to create a “Y” shape into the corners.
TUTORIAL: How To Sew Welt Pockets
Step 4: Flip the pocket into the inside of the main fabric and press well.
Note: The curve side of the pocket is facing the front side of the jacket and not towards the armhole.
Tips: Press open the seams. This will help the outside lay better.
Step 5: Using the notches as a guide, fold up the facing to create the welt.
TIP: There are notches on the pattern piece to help you with this step. Align the third notch from the welt with the first notch WS together to create your welt pocket. The second notch will be on the fold and covering the hole.
Step 6: Pin the short sides of the welt to the seam allowance (the little triangle shape) only. Do not pin to the front of the main fabric.
Sew right on top of the stitching line that is already there. Repeat on the other side.
This will adhere the short edges of the pocket to the jacket.
Step 7: Place the pocket lining on top of the main pocket with RS facing. And sew all around the edges. Go ahead and use your serger here if you prefer.
Step 8: One more final touch is to sew along the top of the seam allowance behind the opening of the welt pocket. This will make the pocket appear more structured and lay nicely.
You are done!
Stand back & enjoy your amazing work!
Happy sewing xxx
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