Holiday season is coming up and you probably looking for the perfect dress for a special occasion? Right! Then, Zahara is it!
Zahara has a beautiful front bodice that features princess seams, unique back shape, and an invisible zipper to give this dress a seamless look. The full cirlce skirt is absolutely perfect for your little girl to test her “twirling” skills. This one will not disappoint! Create Zahara with special occasion fabric for a birthday, wedding, or any other special day. However, Zahara is also perfect for an everyday dress.
I can already see the look on your face when you hear Invisible zipper!!! Don’t let the invisible zipper scare you! We actually think it is easier than sewing on multiple buttons/button holes. We also prefer the look of an invisible zipper over buttons, especially on a special occasion dresses. So to help you along the way, we decided to make a step by step tutorial with some tips.
For this tutorial, we will be using Zahara Peplum & Dress pattern. If you don’t have your copy yet you can purchase it here. You will use a 5/8″ or 1.5 cm zipper seam allowance which is already included in the pattern pieces.
let’s begin shall we!
TUTORIAL: How To Add An Invisible Zipper In Any Lined Dress
Follow Step 1-7 of the pattern tutorial to complete the top/dress assembling steps. After step 7 you will have completed the following before we attached the zipper.
- You have attached your main skirt to the main bodice and your skirt lining to the bodice lining.
- The back is open from the neck all the way down to the hem.
STEP 1: Preparing The Zipper
Unzip the zipper and lay it WS up. Be sure to use a synthetic setting on your iron, iron the zipper teeth flat. With the help of your fingers uncurl the teeth of the zipper while pressing it flat with the tip of your iron. Keep zipper open at this time.
STEP 2: Attaching The Zipper
Take the zipper and turn it upside down and place it on the left side of the garment, right sides together. Make sure the lining is pushed out of the away. Align the teeth of the zipper with the line you drew earlier 5/8” (1.5 cm) in from the edge. Make sure that the zipper stop is also align with neckline seam, where the main bodice meets the lining so it will zip all the way up. Pin.
Using your invisible zipper foot or regular zipper foot, sew the zipper as close to the coils as you can until you reach the end of the zipper.
TIPS: Go slowly here to prevent the fabric from puckering. Zip the zipper to see if it can easily go up! Unzip again and repeat for the opposite side.
On the opposite side, pin the zipper to the garment like shown in the photo below. After pinning and before sewing, close the zipper to make sure that you’ve pinned it correctly and the waistline and the neckline seams are aligned. This part can easily go WRONG, so it’s very important to double check before sewing. Once you’ve checked, unzip the zipper and sew.
STEP 3: Complete The Installation
Pull the zipper closed and press. Make sure all seams are lined up.
Next we are going to sandwiched the zipper between the lining and the main garment. Using the regular zipper foot, sew close to the zipper seam allowance you created earlier until you reach the end of the zipper. Pull right sides out and press. Repeat on the opposite side.
You did it! Just one more step to go.
STEP 4: Finishing The Back Seam
Zip up the zipper and place the two main back skirts right sides together. Make sure the end of the zipper is out of the way, otherwise it’ll get caught in the stitches. Sew the 5/8” (1.5 cm) seam allowance to finish the skirt by sewing from the bottom of the dress to the point where your zipper ends. Remember to stay stitch at the end near the zipper foot. Press open the seam allowance and make sure that the fabric lays flat. Repeat this for the lining.
**Note: On Zahara Party Peplum & Dress, the zipper will extend into the skirt. The steps are the same; however, you just continue pinning the lining to the end of the zipper.
Now stand back and enjoy the back of your Zahara!